Smurf’s Cafe, Treasure Beach

The most social spot to meet for breakfast? Smurf’s, of course! Expect to rub shoulders with tout Treasure Beach

t’s difficult to describe the breakfast scene at Smurf’s because, quite honestly, it’s a scene that sounds a lot like cooked-up fiction. Like a ‘70s-era Jamaican film circa The Harder They Come or Countryman. Like a vehicle for Carl Bradshaw, along with some Rastas, plus locals and actors cast to play visitors from abroad. That’s the cast, and crew, you’ll find sitting at Smurf’s each morning. The drill is always the same. Find a seat at a table outside in the back. Then, go inside the house where the ladies are cooking and order ackee and saltfish, eggs, pancakes or some other type of Jamaican breakfast. Then camp out, chatting with whomever happens to be there for the next hour or two or three. Best is if you bring your own backgammon board. Now, all this would seem absolutely normal, but at Smurf’s it’s a beach-and-breakfast version of the cantina scene from Star Wars. It’s that, added to the Jamaican-film-from-the-‘70s-vibe. I could keep going, but rather than my mixing any more metaphors, best would be for you to visit Smurf’s. Because, you really do have to see it for yourself. Seriously.

—LISA GABOR